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Friday, May 31, 2013

Contact! Contact! Contact! A Vietnam AAR

A "Tropic Lightning" Rifle company is on a routine patrol, when suddenly an enemy of unknown strength engages them! With Armored Cav nearby, waiting to react, the US push forward.

Sean and I decided to try out a book mission for the first time, deciding on Contact! Contact! Contact! Up until now, we've only done quick and dirty homebrew scenarios. With about 930ish points per side, we figured a full board would work out okay. Sean is up to play the US, and he is excited to get some tracks on the ground. We aren't sure how the US will do at Confident Trained, having only played them as vets up until now!

Sean's US Rifle Company (25th Infantry)
  • HQ + Medic + Medevac + C&C Chopper
  • Rifle Platoon
  • Rifle Platoon
  • Armored Cavalry w/ 4 ACAVS and 2 Pattons
  • Huey Hog
  • 105 Battery (fire support w/ 3 tubes)
Steven's PAVN Infantry Battalion
  • HQ + 3 Booby Traps
  • Infantry Company w/ 1 Platoon and LMG
  • Infantry Company w/ 1 Platoon and LMG
  • Recoilless Gun platoon w/ 6 Type 52 75mm
  • AAA Platoon w/ 3 Type 54 AAA
  • 130mm Artillery (fire support w/ 6 tubes)
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New to Bolt Action: Your First List

Craig did a great job earlier in the week letting you know what you need to get before you start playing, up to and including several miniature manufacturers to choose from. Once you've read the rule book and decided on your nation of choice, it's time to dive into my second favorite part of any miniature battle game - listing!

Time to form up and head to the table front!

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Thursday, May 30, 2013

For Immediate Release: Overlord Delayed!

Orders came through. The weather is bad, its a no go!
Due to a customs issue the release of the D-Day Compilation books being released by Battlefront has been delayed until the 29th of June. As a result Battlefront has asked us to move the start date of the campaign back until the 29th.
I apologize if this affects your ability to participate in the campaign.
While you all sit around waiting to mount up, why not discuss the upcoming campaign, or anything else really on our forum.

We know many of you had planned games around the kickoff of the campaign.  Because of this, we will allow submissions of games that take place after June16th to count!  So get your games in, get your batreps written, and be ready to submit on launch of the campaign!

We are really sorry for this delay, but we couldn't in good conscience launch the campaign before the release of the new books from Battlefront, as that would make for an awkward transition mid-campaign.

Thanks, if you have any questions please sound off on our forum:

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Noob Zone in NL

Starting positions. Rene's objectives are among the trees at the top left, and the two trucks between the two platoons of T34s.
Back in March, my friend Rene van den Assem and I tried a couple of games of FOW using two small German armies he has in his collection. Having played blue on blue twice, we decided it 'tasted like more'. Some debate later, we opted for Russians (Rene) and Germans (that'd be for me!) and obviously the Eastern Front: big steppes, saves on terrain (Sorry Luke, we won't need Lucage for a while…). As we both have lives lots of wargaming projects and, much more importantly, are both complete FoW noobs with very little idea of what is actually effective in Flames of War, we agreed it'd be best to start out slowly, painting and collecting armies while we play a game every so many weeks.
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Wednesday, May 29, 2013

PAVN Anti Aircraft

The type 54 12.7mm Machine Gun (The familiar DShK for all of you soviet players!) was widely used by many nations.  In Flames of War Vietnam, the PAVN have access to these "Dragon Killers" as a means to keep pesky choppers at bay!

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Another M113 review and my ARVN ACAVs

Steve beat me to it on this one but here is my take on the M113 from an ARVN point of view.

Kits are great and I cant fault the ease of construction and the accuracy of them. Loved putting them together but contrary to the advice on the BF site I found it much easier to fit the top deck before the front plate. Everything else went together with no problems at all.
One box made up

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Speed Painting US Infantry

(Continuing our "Week of the New Guy", here comes Martin Bond, "marticus", with another article for you Bolt Action-related pleasure. This time, he's showing us his quick and dirty painting guide for American infantry. Great for those of you first timers out there just starting out, and great for those grizzled veterans just looking for a fast way to get those models on the table. - Judson)

I’m not a great painter, I am the first to admit that, but I wanted to get my guys looking at least acceptable for tabletop standard, and I wanted to do it quickly.  So I painted these guys using my Flames of War US paint set, gunmetal grey, beige brown, flat flesh and that old favorite of mine Devlan Mud. (Not in the FoW US paint set, but OK! - J)


I’ve broken down my method here into steps, so you can see how quickly and easily a “Tabletop” standard army can be done.  They aren’t going to win any Crystal Brush awards, but at arm’s length they aren’t too shabby, and can be achieved by anyone with a minimum of brush control.

I did these in batches, and painted 45 US infantry in 4 evenings, so you can really churn these out quickly and get them waging war on the tabletop faster than ever.

First things get your hobby zone set up, and your models primed. I went for black; some folks swear by white for priming, it’s all personal preference

Stage 1

Paint the trousers using US field drab, it doesn’t matter if you’re messy here.

Stage 2

Paint the tunics using khaki, making sure it’s neat where it joins the trousers. As for the rest, don’t worry too much if paint gets on everything. 

Stage 3

Break out the green grey for the webbing pouches and gaiters!

Stage 4

Use your Red Leather paint on the boots and knife sheath. Make sure to be neat here, it saves time with touch ups.

Stage 5

Paint your weapon's woodwork with beige brown.

Stage 6

Hands and face should be painted flat flesh. Again, keeping it neat here saves touch up time later.

Stage 7

Paint the silver onto the bayonet, handles, gun parts, and anything else that needs it.

Stage 8

Brown violet for the helmets, and we are nearly there!

Stage 9

When everything is dry, give it all a liberal coat of Devlan mud. Go lighter or darker depending on your preference, it really makes a difference and brings the model details out nicely

Once you have done here and it’s dry just base to your preference and jobs done! You can really rattle these out and they don’t look too bad at all.
(Totally agree! If you've got some tips or a guide to offer, come over to our forum and check it out! Click below to educate us! - J)

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Review - Pandemic

Pandemic is a 4 player board game unlike any I had previously played before. This is my first foray into the world of board games beyond the old dead whipping horse that is monopoly, which to be honest drives me nuts.

I picked it up because Steven had recommended it and me and my sister and her boyfriend were stuck at home for a week with nothing better to do.

Pandemic is part of a "new" breed of imaginative and exciting board games that I had, until recently completely ignored. Its biggest and possibly most exciting feature is that its 2-4 player cooperative - no more being lorded over by your sister who beats you every time (stupid monopoly!)

"Its biggest and possibly most exciting feature is that its 2-4 player Cooperative"

The basic setup is a map with major cities dotted around and linked together by a network of what what can be assumed to be flight paths. Each city is coloured depending on their location, Europe and most of North America are blue, Asia and Australia is red, South America and Africa is yellow and the Middle East and Russia is black. These colours correspond to a disease and generally the diseases occurs in their own regions.

Each player gets four actions each turn. This includes moving between cities, treating diseases (more on this later), swapping cards with other players and curing diseases. Once the player is done with their turn, they draw cards from the player deck. It is these cards that the player needs to focus on, collecting five of one colour means that a disease can be cured and it becomes less of a threat and curing all four diseases means victory. These cards can also be discarded to fly to their corresponding cities, meaning fast movement around the board at the cost of what may later be an important card.

Players also draw from the infection deck, which will place disease cubes around the board and eventually if left unchecked cause outbreaks. The game can be lost several ways - too many outbreaks and the game ends, if the players run out of player cards the game ends, and running out of disease cubes and the game ends.
Players are constantly having to balance curing a disease, treating the disease cubes and preventing outbreaks. Curing all four diseases before any of these occur is what keeps the players constantly active.

Curing a disease however does not stop a disease. It becomes much easier to treat, but it will still constantly pop up and cause outbreaks if left unchecked. The disease can be eradicated if all disease cubes are removed from the table and can make the end game somewhat easier, but players need to decide whether its worth the time.

Aiding this is each players role, these are randomly assigned at the start of the game and when used right can greatly effect the outcome of the game. Some roles seem on first glance to be better then others but generally apart from one or two, are very well balanced to work in combination with each other.

During the game players are free to discuss actions, show cards and are actively encouraged by the game to swap cards (they have to be in the same city and have that cities card to exchange) and work together. Roles do not limit what a player can do, but will often help decide what each player can contribute to the team, for instance the quarantine specialist will often be sent to control an outbreak while the medic mops up, all the while the scientist will be seeking those ever important cards to cure a disease by exchanging cards with others and the dispatcher makes sure everyone is where they need to be.

The outbreak and epidemic mechanics remove a bit of the randomness that might have occurred were they not in place meaning that some areas will be a consistent issue and making the game more difficult as it progresses.

Setup takes very little time once you know where things go, play time lasts about 45 mins once you have the mechanics down. The game is very well balanced but the difficulty can be increased, you never feel cheated when you lose and victories are glorious and best of all don't have someone lording over you with how awesome they are (stupid monopoly!)

About half the games I have played have been down to the last few cards and very often nail biting.

Overall I can't praise this game enough, as my first venture into the "new" breed of board games I am hooked, and everyone I've played this with has been hooked also, even my old man who probably hasn't played a board game in 15 years was begging me to play Pandemic at the end of each night.

Its opened my eyes and encouraged me to seek out other games and it made me realize that board games didn't have to be the thing you resorted to when the power goes out - stupid monopoly.

8 out of 8 Outbreaks.
.---- -.... -..-. ----- ..... / ..-. .-.. .- ... ....

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Tuesday, May 28, 2013

Plastic Soldier Company Tiger I E Review by Dane Tkacs

At long last, some new German Heavy Armor! The gang at WWPD were kind enough to send me a Box of four PSC Tiger 1s. This is my first experience with PSC and I was very pleased.   The box came with very clear instructions and clearly marked (color coded) parts giving the gamer an option to build early war, mid war and late war production models.  I have always been a Tiger fan, I don't know why that is?  Perhaps just seeing them in action on the Movie Kelly's heroes when I was young.  "When we was in the bocage country, we was assaulted by them Tigers!" 
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Monday, May 27, 2013

News From the Front 58

Episode 58 is here!
Operation Overlord is announced!  The dudes discuss the campaign, and their recent hobbying.  We also discuss the WWPD app in the Google App Store (which is available now!  Just search for WWPD!).  In Act II, The fellows talk about Historicon (and team tournaments in particular), and some recent news about FoW.  Act III sees the fellows discuss transports in our commonly overlooked rules segment, and the episode winds down with a discussion about Vietnam.
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New to Bolt Action: Getting Started

So, You're New to Bolt Action
When reading through the WWPD Bolt Action Forum, and when talking to potential new Bolt Action players, a lot of questions arise about what you need to buy to get into the game.  Over the next few weeks I am going to be putting out a series of articles on how to go from having nothing to having a 1000 point Bolt Action force.  We'll start with the basics, then take a look at the thought that goes into a small 500 point force. Each week I'll add a little more until we have a 1000 point force ready for action. (And I might even join in. Let the "Week of the New Guy" begin! - Judson)

The Rule BookThe first thing you should do before getting into any new game is to buy the rule book.  If you don’t own the rule book, you can’t play the game.  Well, that is not entirely true, but then you’ll be that guy at your club who never buys the rules and mooches off of others for rules questions.  Seriously though, pick up the book. It is a fantastic piece of wargaming goodness.  The book costs about $35, depending on where you get it, is full of awesome pictures and is only 216 pages long.  The rules themselves only make up 120 of those pages, making this one of the less complicated and easier to learn wargaming rule sets on the market. ("Only" 120 pages - and I couldn't agree more. A 120 page rulebook is "simple"! What have I become? - J) 

The rest of the book is dedicated to historical fluff and the force selectors/army lists for American, German, British and Soviet armies.  While there are more comprehensive army books available, the force selectors in the back of the rule book provide you with everything you need to build an army.  If you want to play a minor nation or the Japanese, don’t feel left out. Warlord has released several free .pdfs, which can be found on their website.  Those .pdfs will hold you over until the appropriate army books come out; and if your favorite isn't there yet, it probably will be soon.

Cost Main Rules: $35
Cost Army Book: $25

Order DiceAnother item that is essential to playing a game of Bolt Action is order dice.  Bolt Action uses a random unit activation mechanism as opposed to an “I go - you go” turn sequence.  This random activation system allows for a certain level of fog of war, randomness, and battlefield luck not often found in other rule systems.   Each turn you place one colored order die in a bag for each unit you and your opponent has.  During game play you randomly draw dice from the bag.  If your side's unit die is drawn, you get to activate one unit.  This can lead to runs of two or more orders being given to units from a one side in a row, but be careful and think about the order you want to activate your units.  Is it more important for you to activate that tank to shoot, or move that squad caught in the open?  Only your cunningness of generalship knows. (Thought about editting that phrase out, but it was simply too magnificent to alter. - J)

While not entirely necessary to play, the unit dice are convenient.  Each six-sided die is labeled with one of the six orders you can issue to your units in the game.  This makes it easy to remember orders and track which units you have activated.  This is important for troops who are in ambush or have been given a down order.  The dice cost $16 for a set of twelve and come in variety of colors to match your army.  If you can’t cough up the dice dough, don’t worry; you and your opponent can use alternatives to activate units.  You can also use a deck of cards or colored beads to generate the random activation. 

Cost Order Dice: $16

Pin Markers Another key mechanism of Bolt Action game play is the effect pinning has on troops.  Pinning not only effects shooting, but also represents a unit’s willingness to follow the orders it is given.  If a player wants to successfully outwit an opponent it necessary for them to possess good pin management skills.  The foundation of good pin management is tracking the number of pins a unit has received.  Warlord sells a box of 8 pin markers for $8.  These are placed behind unit when they receive pins.  

If you don’t want to buy the Warlord pin markers, there are a wide variety of alternatives out there.  When I play Bolt Action I use nation chits from Axis and Allies or pin markers from Flames of War.  You could also use breads, a die, or casualty figures.  All of these items have different costs, but what is important is you need a way to mark pins. So get creative.

What ScaleLet's face it, you haven’t really lived until you have collected the same army in two or more scales.  However, your wallet or wife might not be pleased to the proposition.   Luckily Bolt Action can be played in any scale you want as long as your opponent’s troops are the same size.  You could use 1/35 scale military models, 25- 28mm figures, 1/72 or 20mm figures, 15mm figures, or even down to 10mm figures.  Additionally, you can use either single or group basing.

For example, I play using 28mm and base all my figures on single stands, but base my fixed teams on group bases.  This allows me to keep the figures in a team together, while my squads can spread out.  If playing in a smaller scale, you may already have troops on group bases, or you may want to collect a smaller scale and base on pennies to save money.  It is worth noting that most players do play using 28mm figures, but it is not a perquisite to play.  If you already have World War Two figures it is probably worth it to test the game using the figures you have and then with your gaming buddies settle on a scale you are all willing to use and collect.

Model OptionsThe sky is the limit when it comes to model option for Bolt Action.  Warlord does not require you to use their figures to play their game.  Even if they did, there would be no way for them to stop us from buying figures else were.  I have figures from at least 6 or 7 manufactures. You’ll want to find a range of figures that you are comfortable with.  Maybe cost is an issue for you, or maybe you want different sculpted miniatures than one company offers. Either way there is someone out their making miniatures for you.  

Here is a list of manufactures of various scales you may want to check out.

Black Tree Designs
Bolt Action 
Battle Honors 
Berlin or Bust 
The Assault Group 

Wargame Foundry 
Wargames Factory 
Plastic Solider Company 
Victory Force 
Perry Brothers 
Offensive Miniatures
Crusader Miniatures

Plastic Solider Company 
Sgt. Major Miniatures 
Valiant Miniatures 
Old Glory Command Decision 
Peter Pig 
Plastic Soldier Company 
Wargames Factory 


One thing that is nice about Bolt Action is that after your initial investment in you core infantry units you don’t need much more to play.  The game is very affordable to get into, so it might be worth it to drop some extra change on your troops.  

Tanks Many of the above listed manufactures also make armor and vehicles, but there are other manufactures that make suitable tank models as well.  I own a combination of pastic model kits and resin or metal miniatures kits.  Here are some addition manufactures that make tanks suitable for 28mm game play.

Die Waffenkammer
Army Group North
Hobby Boss
Company B
This is by no means a comprehensive list of all the manufactures that create World War Two figures. If I missed one of your favorite companies, let us know about it on the WWPD Forum.

Next time we'll look at the fundamentals of building a 500 points force and how to use the force selectors.

If you want to talk about this article or any other article on the WWPD network make sure you join the conversation on the WWPD Forum by clicking the link below.

“Craig Baxter is the Director of the WWPD Northern Research center in Anchorage, AK. When he’s not contributing to he is busy blogging, painting, modeling and rolling dice. You can find more of his work and articles at”
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Week in Recap: StarCraft 2: Heart of the Swarm 5/5

Darqueling's Let's Play: StarCraft 2: Heart of the Swarm

StarCraft 2 is a military science fiction real-time strategy video game that revolves around three species: the Terrans, human exiles from Earth; the Zerg, a super-species of assimilated life forms; and the Protoss, a technologically advanced species with vast mental powers.
Starcraft 2: Heart of the Swarm:

The Experiments... (5/1)

Tug of War (5/5)

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Friday, May 24, 2013

Vietnam AAR: Here comes the Cavalry!

Our good buddy Brian Fuller was visiting Richmond recently and swung by for a game. He was curious to give Vietnam a shot, so I whipped up 2 lists that featured basically everything I had painted, and came up with a quick and dirty scenario.

Brian's US Airmobile Infantry
  • HQ + Medic + Medevac
  • Airmobile Infantry Platoon + Aviation Platoon w/ 4 Slicks
  • Aeroweapons Platoon: 1 Hog
  • Rocket Artillery: 1 Frog
  • Armored Cavalry (CT): 4 M113s, 2 M48A3 Pattons
Steven's PAVN Infantry Battalion
  • HQ + 2 HMG Nests
  • 1 Platoon Strong Company w/ LMG
  • 1 Platoon Strong Company w/ LMG
  • 6x 75mm Recoilless Guns
  • 3x Type 54 Dshk AAA MGs
  • 3x 130mm Artillery (off board)
Choppers approaching the LZ
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Review: Battle Honors Type 97 Chi-Ha Japanese Medium Tank

Armored units are an often overlooked branch of the Imperial Japanese Army.  In our movie-minded version of the War, tough as nails Marines struggled against an unseen Japanese foe in the jungle islands of the Pacific.  Rarely does an accurate depiction of Japanese armor make its way onto the silver screen.  However this is not the historical case.  The Imperial Japanese Army developed and fielded armored elements, which were utilized in many of its campaigns against the Chinese, Soviets and Western Allies.  For example, the Japanese used several hundred tanks against the British during the Malaya Campaign. Of all their tanks one of the best and most reliable tank was the Type 97 ShinHoTo Chi Ha.

Type 97 Shinhoto Chi Ha
From Wikipedia

The Type 97 medium tank Chi-Ha was the most widely produced Japanese medium tank of World War II, with about 26 mm thick armor on its turret sides, and 33 mm on its gun shield, considered average protection in the 1930s. Some 3,000 units were produced by Mitsubishi, including several types of specialized tanks. Initial versions were armed with a low-velocity 57 mm gun, but from 1942 onwards, the Model 97 was armed with a high-velocity 47 mm cannon, mounted in a larger turret taken from the Type 1 Chi-He medium tank. This version was designated Shinhoto Chi-Ha ("new turret") and is considered by many to be one of the best Japanese tank designs of the war.

Japanese Army observers had watched tank developments in Europe and studied as avidly as any European military the operational experiences gained by German, Soviet, and Italian tanks in the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939). In order to improve the anti-tank capability of the Type 97 Chi-Ha, a new turret armed with a high-velocity 47mm gun was combined with the Chi-Ha's hull. This is where the word "ShinHoTo", meaning "New Turret", comes from.

When the Type 97 entered service, properly equipped and supported mechanized infantry units were realized. The Type 97 ShinHoTo Chi-Ha first saw action at Corregidor Island of the Philippines in 1942. The skill with which Japanese commanders maneuvered their mechanized infantry divisions was then best seen in Malaya, where the lighter weight of Japanese medium tanks allowed for a rapid ground advance so heavily supported by armor that British defenders never had a chance to establish effective defense lines. The Type 97 ShinHoTo Chi-Ha served against allied forces throughout the Pacific and East Asia as well as the Soviets during the July-August 1945 conflict in Manchuria. While vulnerable to most opposing Allied tanks (M2/M3 Light, M4 Medium, and T-34), the 47mm high-velocity gun did give the ShinHoTo Type 97 a fighting chance against them.

My Type 97 ShinHoTo Chi Ha is from Battle Honors.  I picked it up in a trade and the sticker said it was $17.  You may be hard pressed to find tank models from Battle Honors anymore.  Old Glory 15's who casts and distributes Battle Honors, doesn't appear to be making Battle Honors tanks anymore and I have been unable to locate them anywhere else on the web.

If I had to take a guess I would say this is a 1/56 or 1/50 scale tank.  It is a bit smaller in scale when placed next to my 1/48 models.  Unlike all my other plastic models kits, this kit is made entirely of metal, which made assembly a breeze.  The turret was three parts, there was a hull MG, a hull and two tracks.  There was also no assembly guide, but it wasn't need.

The kit required very little clean up, but the cast was a bit rough and bland.  The tracks were a bit fiddly and thin and I felt like I was going to break them when I was handling them.  There looks to be an MG missing too.  All the photos I found of the Type 97 ShinHoTo Chi Ha showed a rear facing turret MG.

Overall not a bad little tank kit.  I give it 6 out of 10 Rising Suns.  I would score it higher, but the fact that the kit looks to be OOP and it being a bit rough marked it down a good point or two.

If you want to talk about this article or any other article on the WWPD network make sure you join the conversation on the WWPD Forum by clicking the link below.

“Craig Baxter is the Director of the WWPD Northern Research center in Anchorage, AK. When he’s not contributing to he is busy blogging, painting, modeling and rolling dice. You can find more of his work and articles at”

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Thursday, May 23, 2013

Homemade Terrain - Center Pieces

While the guys over in Richmond are big on buying their scenery, I am the other side of the fence, I enjoy making my own scenery and would rather sit and make my own terrain regardless of time spent.

With wargames like Warhammer 40k and other sci-fi and fantasy games sourcing terrain is easy, any bottle, tube, broken toy and scraps can be turned into a piece of interesting scenery. With a historical game like Flames of War this isn't so easy, but with a careful selection of parts and a bit of imagination its possible to make some pretty convincing scenery.

CBaxter Already showed us how to make some pretty awesome looking roads (a technique I used below)

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Wednesday, May 22, 2013

AAR: Irish Guards vs. Wiking

Luke and I got together for a Flames of War game to test out my new Irish Guards list from the new Market-Garden books.  Luke's has really taken a liking to the Panthers, so he made up a Wiking list.  We decided to just run a simple Free-For-All mission to get right into things.

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AAR: Envelopment Germans vs Americans

Three of us go together and played a 1250point Bolt Action game.  The battle pitted my Germans against my buddy Bob's Rangers.  My German's were tasked with defending a hilly wooded section of the front from an allied attacked.  (Note: We played on the same battlefield we used to play an ACW Black Powder game the night before, so it looks like we are fighting in rural West Virgina.) - Hardly a stretch to think of that table as something somewhere in Western Europe. -Judson

German Force
1st Lt.
Artillery Observer
Light Artillery
Medium Mortar
3 x Heer Infantry Squads
1 x SS Infantry Squads
Panzerchreck Team
Panzer IV H

American Force
1st Lt.
Bazooka Team
2 x Medium Mortars
2 x MMGs
3 x Ranger Squads
M 10 Wolverine
M 8 Grey Hound

German Force take up positions on the front.

German 81mm mortar hiding in some brush.  We used lichen to mark hidden troops.  The lichen was removed once the troops were no longer hidden. 

German infantry and support weapons holding the center.

US Rangers advance through a field.

Their M8 moving up in support.

While another squad supported by the M10 advances up the other flank.

German troops silently watch as the Americans approach.

German artillery falls on the advancing Americans.

While German infantry opens up on the other advancing Americans.

The effects of the artillery are devastating.

A Panzer IV arrives from reserve and exchanges fire with the M10.

The Panzer IV comes out on top.

The Germans in the middle exchange fire with American support weapons.

While the Panzerschrek sneaks up on the M8.

After taking out the M8 the Panzerschrek team is gunned down making way for the advancing Americans.

The German's light artillery scores a hit against an American MMG team, knocking out all three crew with four killing hits.

The Panzer IV moves to support the SS on the flank.

It lays down a wall of fire against the Rangers.

Finally the Americans make it over the hill to attack the SS in the woods, but it is too late.  The US attack has stalled elsewhere and time has run out.

It was a great game, but a resounding German victory.  The Germans scored 12 VPs for knocking out 6 US units while the Germans only score 2 VPs.  In hindsight, the US should have flank marched and moved more aggressively against the Germans positions.  The Germans were mostly regular, while the US force was mainly veterans. 

If you want to talk about this article or any other article on the WWPD network make sure you join the conversation on the WWPD Forum by clicking the link below.

“Craig Baxter is the Director of the WWPD Northern Research center in Anchorage, AK. When he’s not contributing to he is busy blogging, painting, modeling and rolling dice. You can find more of his work and articles at”

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